the repair
The hinge had broken off the front along with a portion of the cabinet, I glued the two parts back together and filled missing sections with filler and painted after with some burgundy touch-up paint that came with an old Ford I owned once. I stripped all the brackets speaker chassis front badge and knobs, all push on types.
Lots of straps to hold 7.5 volt and 90 volt batteries and mains cable |
Out of the 4 missing valves I had 2 as spares and had to order 2. The sound was also distorted so I replaced the grid coupling capacitor b/w the driver stage and that was found to be leaky (not detectable on meter but failed under load) C19 10nF, I've had a couple of these fail lately in various valve radios. I think it removed the negative bias on the output valve which always needs to be around -7 volts for clear sound.
To made the dial more interesting I added 2 yellow LED's in series with a 47 k resistor across the 90 volt HT rail, fixing them to the ends of the aluminium white tuning back plate, making sure that the fixing didn't interfere with the chassis fitting back into the sockets either side. On socked fixing had broke, but I found the missing bit and glued it in place.
Lights fitted to dial also illuminate carry handle. Wires taped to rear of access plate. I've started using warm or yellow LED's rather that the over bright normal ones, they recall the look of the old incandescent bulbs.
Rear of tuner dial showing the bent over wires from LED's. Make sure to cover all around the soldered connections with Gorilla tape, other tapes tend to fall off when warm.
I've included full service information if needed, I replaced a few high value resistors and adjusted the aerial tuning coil (under hole in plate cover) She was surprisingly sensitive and very low background noise, also this model employs 2 ferroceptors aerial rods I've not heard of before, a Philips invention no doubt. (see period add)
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